Yosemite Falls: A Difficult Hike to an Unforgettable View
Yosemite National Park is famous for many things. Granite cliffs. Giant sequoia trees. But waterfalls are among its top attractions. The most famous of all is the one that shares the park’s name. Yosemite Falls drops a total of 2,425 feet from top to bottom. This makes it arguably the tallest waterfall in North America.
The claim has been questioned recently. Some measurements suggest other waterfalls may be taller. But Yosemite Falls remains somewhere in the top ten and is undeniably one of the most impressive waterfalls on the continent.
The waterfall is not a single continuous drop. It breaks into three sections. The upper falls, middle falls, and lower falls. The middle section is inaccessible to visitors and difficult to see except from a few vantage points throughout the valley. The upper and lower sections, however, can be easily viewed and reached by trail.
The Lower Falls Trail
The lower falls are accessed by a one-mile round trip paved trail. The path remains relatively flat throughout. This makes it accessible to almost all visitors. The viewing platform at the end provides a close-up look at the 320-foot lower section of the falls.
Like many of Yosemite’s waterfalls, the flow strength depends on snowmelt and time of year. Spring is the best time to visit. The winter snow melts and feeds the creek. The water crashes down with tremendous force. By late summer and fall, the flow often slows to a trickle. In dry years, the lower falls can almost completely stop.
After a heavy winter, visitors to the lower falls should expect to get wet. The mist from the falls soaks the viewing platform area. Cameras need protection. A rain jacket is helpful.
The Upper Falls Trail
The upper falls are a different story entirely. The hike to the top is difficult. The trail runs about seven miles round trip. Most of it is uphill. Hikers gain about 3,250 feet of elevation over the course of the hike. This is a serious climb, not a casual walk.
The trailhead sits just past the parking lot for Camp 4. Only registered campers can park at Camp 4 itself. A parking lot directly across the street serves other visitors, but it fills quickly. The valley shuttle provides an alternative. The Yosemite Falls stop drops riders near the trailhead.
Starting the Hike
The trail begins with switchbacks. The first mile is almost entirely switchbacks through thick forest. The trees eventually thin out. Views of Yosemite Valley become more frequent. The sight of Half Dome and the Merced River far below rewards hikers for their effort.
About one mile in, the trail reaches Columbia Rock. This is an excellent viewpoint overlooking Yosemite Valley. Hikers can see Half Dome, the Merced River, and much of the valley floor. It is a good place for a quick break. But this is only one mile into a seven-mile hike. There is much more ahead.
The trail was constructed between 1873 and 1877. It is one of the oldest trails in Yosemite National Park. The original builders carved the path into the granite slope using hand tools. Their work has survived for nearly 150 years.
The View of Upper Falls
After Columbia Rock, the trail levels out briefly and even goes slightly downhill. Hikers begin to hear the roar of the upper portion of Yosemite Falls. Rounding a corner brings the first proper view of the upper falls. On a good water year, the sight is overwhelming. Water crashes down the granite cliff in a continuous white curtain. The sound echoes off the canyon walls.
Naturalist John Muir kept a residence in the park near the base of the lower falls. In his 1912 book “The Yosemite,” he described the falling water of the upper falls as “a mighty downrush of comets.” From this vantage point, his meaning becomes clear.
Some hikers turn around here. They have seen the falls. They have gotten a good view. The hardest part of the trail lies ahead. For those who continue, the real work begins.
The Exposed Switchbacks
The downhill portion ends. The trail begins climbing again. Hikers get closer to the upper falls. The mist from the falls starts to reach the trail. On days with strong flow, this section can be wet.
The viewpoints along this part of the trail are amazing. Hikers get as close as possible to the base of the upper falls without climbing the cliff itself. But the price is more switchbacks. These switchbacks are completely exposed to the sun. There is very little shade along the way.
On a hot day, this section is brutal. Hikers who started late in the morning will suffer here. The sun beats down on the granite slope. The temperature rises. The trail seems to go on forever.
Taking breaks is essential. There is no shame in stopping to rest. Water becomes more valuable with every step.
The Final Stretch
The top of the upper falls disappears from view as hikers climb. The forest becomes abundant again. This signals that the top is near. The trail levels out. A split leads to the upper falls viewpoint.
Following the signs brings hikers to an opening with amazing views of the valley. Yosemite Creek, fed by the melting snow, rushes past. A famous bridge spans the creek. From the bridge, hikers can see the water just before it goes over the edge.
The final section to the proper viewpoint is short but very narrow. Handrails help with balance. The drop on one side is significant. This is a one-way section of trail. Hikers pass each other carefully.
At the viewpoint, the full scope of the accomplishment becomes clear. The valley floor is far, far below. Half Dome rises in the distance. The waterfall crashes over the edge with incredible force. The spray rises hundreds of feet into the air.
When to Go
Spring is the best time to hike the upper falls trail. The snowmelt ensures strong flow. The temperatures are cooler than summer. The wildflowers are blooming.
Early summer can also work, especially in years with heavy snowpack. In a record snow year, the falls may still be raging in June. But by July, the flow diminishes. By August and September, the falls are often a shadow of their spring selves.
Winter hikes are possible but dangerous. Snow and ice cover the trail. The upper sections become treacherous. Only experienced winter hikers with proper equipment should attempt it.
What to Bring
Water is the most important item. The trail has no water sources after the start. At least two liters per person is recommended for this seven-mile hike. More is better on hot days.
Sunscreen and a hat are essential. Much of the trail is exposed. Sunburn happens quickly at high elevation.
Sturdy hiking boots with good grip are necessary. The trail is rocky and steep. Ankle support helps prevent injury.
Snacks provide energy for the long climb. The hike takes most people four to six hours round trip. Calories are needed.
A rain jacket is useful on days with strong flow. The mist near the upper falls can soak hikers who linger.
Safety Considerations
The upper falls trail is strenuous. Hikers should be in good physical condition before attempting it. The 3,250 feet of elevation gain is no joke. Legs will burn. Lungs will work hard.
Starting early is essential, especially in summer. Late starters face the hottest part of the day on the exposed switchbacks. Heat exhaustion is a real risk.
Wildlife is present in the area. Black bears are sometimes seen near the trail. Keeping 100 yards of distance is required. Food should be stored properly.
The narrow section near the viewpoint has steep drop-offs. Handrails help, but caution is still required. This is not a place for running or careless behavior.
The Reward
The hike to the top of Yosemite Falls is one of the most difficult in the park. It is not as long as Half Dome. It does not require cables or special permits. But the relentless uphill takes a toll.
The reward is worth it. Standing at the top of North America’s tallest waterfall is an unforgettable experience. The view of Yosemite Valley from above is spectacular. The sound of the water rushing past and over the edge is primal. The mist on the face is refreshing after a long climb.
For those who have tried and failed, the success is even sweeter. Weather cancels plans. Injuries delay attempts. Road closures block access. But when all the conditions finally align, the hike delivers.
Conclusion
Yosemite Falls is the park’s namesake for a reason. The 2,425-foot drop is a breathtaking sight from the valley floor. But seeing it from above is a completely different experience.
The lower falls trail is easy and accessible. The upper falls trail is difficult and demanding. One requires a short walk. The other requires a full day of climbing.
Both are worth doing. The lower falls provide a quick reward. The upper falls provide a sense of accomplishment. Together, they offer a complete appreciation of one of North America’s greatest waterfalls.
Spring is the time to go. The snowmelt feeds the falls. The water rages. The mist rises. And the view from the top makes every switchback worthwhile.