White Sands National Park: A Guide to New Mexico’s Desert Wonder

White Sands National Park is one of the most appropriately named places in the National Park System. The park protects 275 square miles of pure white gypsum sand dunes. The views here are unlike any other in the country, especially at sunset when the dunes glow in shades of orange, pink, and purple.

White Sands is one of two national parks in New Mexico. The other is Carlsbad Caverns National Park. Both are worth visiting. This guide covers everything needed to plan a trip to White Sands, including where to stay, what to hike, and how to see the park at its best.

Getting There

The closest major airport to White Sands is in Albuquerque, New Mexico. From Albuquerque, the drive to the park takes about three and a half hours. A closer option is El Paso, Texas. The drive from El Paso to White Sands takes about one and a half hours.

The city of Alamogordo, New Mexico, sits just next to the park. Hotels and Airbnb rentals are available here. The drive from Alamogordo to the park entrance takes about 20 minutes.

The park is not remote. It is easily accessible by paved roads. The visitor center sits just inside the entrance.

A Unique Location

White Sands is located next to an active missile range. From time to time, the park closes for up to two hours while missile testing occurs. These closures are generally announced about two weeks in advance. Visitors can check online for testing schedules.

While hiking in the dunes, it is unlikely but not impossible to come across unexploded ordinance. Warning signs are posted throughout the area. Anyone who finds an unexploded missile should not touch it. They should note the location and notify a park ranger immediately.

Entrance Fees and Hours

The entrance fee for White Sands is $25 per vehicle. America the Beautiful annual passes are accepted. These passes pay for themselves after about three park visits.

The park is not open 24 hours a day. Generally, it opens around sunrise and closes just after sunset. Visitors should not be late exiting. Rangers will find late visitors and let them out, but the process is not fun for anyone. Operating hours change by season, so checking ahead is wise.

What to Know Before Visiting

White Sands has unique conditions that visitors should understand before arriving.

First, it gets very hot in the summer. There is absolutely no shade in the dune field. Sunscreen and plenty of water are absolute necessities. Heat exhaustion is a real risk on longer hikes.

Second, a good pair of polarized sunglasses is essential. Bright sunlight bouncing off the white sand makes it difficult to see otherwise. Polarized lenses cut the glare and protect the eyes.

Third, the dunes change shape constantly. Wind shifts the sand every day. Marked trails exist, but markers can become buried or moved. It is easy to lose a sense of direction because everything looks the same. Paying close attention to surroundings is critical.

Fourth, do not take any sand. Removing gypsum sand from the park is prohibited.

The Playa Trail

White Sands is a small national park. Only four established trails exist, and none takes very long to hike. The first trail visitors encounter while driving is the Playa Trail.

This half-mile trail leads to a view of a dry lake bed. However, the term “dry” applies only most of the time. When summer monsoon storms roll through, the normally arid playa becomes abundant with life. Water pools on the surface. Insects, birds, and other animals appear. When dry, the trail offers a different kind of beauty but not the white sand the park is named for.

Dune Life Nature Trail

Continuing down the park road, the white sand dunes begin appearing on both sides. Signs direct visitors to the Dune Life Nature Trail. This is the first proper White Sands experience.

The trail is one mile long. It leads straight up into the dunes themselves. From the top of the dunes, visitors get their first sense of how massive this area actually is. Markers guide the way through the loop trail. There is a decent mix of plant life and gypsum dunes here. This is a good introduction to the park.

The Science of Gypsum Dunes

Gypsum sand dunes like those at White Sands are extremely unique. Gypsum sand is generally blown away and dispersed quickly. It does not form dunes in most places. The secret to these dunes staying mostly in place lies beneath the surface.

Water is the answer. A shallow water table underneath the dunes keeps the gypsum sand from completely blowing away. The same water also keeps the sand relatively cool. No matter how hot the air temperature gets, the sand remains comfortable to walk on. Visitors do not have to worry about burning their feet on a hot day.

Interdune Boardwalk

For visitors who would rather not get white sand in their shoes and everywhere else, the Interdune Boardwalk is a good option. This trail is just under half a mile round trip. A raised boardwalk takes visitors out into the dunes. The trail is wheelchair accessible. It provides amazing views without the need to hike up the sand hills.

Alkali Flats Trail

The Alkali Flats Trail is the longest hike in the park. It runs five miles round trip into the heart of White Sands. Vegetation that dots other parts of the dunes is sparse or nonexistent here. Hikers are simply left with rolling white dunes and a spectacular mountain range as a backdrop.

This trail is for those who came to White Sands for endless pristine gypsum dunes and nothing else. Extra caution is needed on this hike. Following the markers carefully is essential. It is easy to lose direction when everything looks the same. Sunset can be amazing from this trail, but hikers probably will not have enough time to both catch sunset and make it out of the park before closing. The Alkali Flats Trail is at the very back of the park.

Sledding the Dunes

The dunes at White Sands can be quite tall. They look a bit like snow. And just like snow, visitors can sled down them.

The store in the visitor center sells saucer sleds and cubes of wax. New sleds cost about $25. Used sleds cost about $16. Used sleds are available because visitors can sell their sleds back to the store for half of what they paid. The store then resells them as used. The wax is also worth buying. Dune sledding is a bit tougher than sledding on snow, and wax helps the sled move faster.

While there are established trails, visitors do not actually have to stick to them. As long as a car is parked in a lot or proper pull-off, visitors can simply take off into the dunes. Climb to the top of any dune, wax the sled, and ride down.

Backcountry Camping

White Sands does not have a proper campground. However, there are 10 backcountry camping sites. These sites are first-come, first-served. To snag one, it is best to be at the entrance gate right when the park opens to get a permit.

The cost is $3 per person. The backcountry camping trail is two miles long and located just before the Alkali Flats Trail. These are primitive sites. Campers must haul all gear in over the dunes.

As of April 2023, backcountry camping was closed while the sites were being rehabilitated. No reopening date had been announced. Visitors should check the park website for updates.

Sunset at White Sands

Sunset is the best time of day at White Sands. The sun’s last light creates a fiery sky and amazing shadows across the white dunes. The scene looks like something from a completely different planet.

Because the park closes right after sunset, visitors should not stray too far from the entrance. A great spot to catch sunset is the Sunset Stroll parking area, about halfway down the main road. Almost every day, a ranger-led hike into the dunes departs from here. Visitors are also free to go off on their own. Pick a dune that works best, sit back, and enjoy the show.

Arriving about an hour before sunset is recommended. This is when the lighting gets extra dramatic. The colors shift from white to gold to orange to pink to purple. It is worth the wait.

Things to Do Outside the Park

After exploring White Sands, visitors may have time to kill before sunset. The city of Alamogordo has several attractions.

The Museum of Space History features artifacts and mementos related to space flight. This area of New Mexico has a lot of space age history. The space shuttle Columbia landed at the White Sands Space Harbor in 1982.

The Alameda Park Zoo is smaller but worth visiting. Admission costs only $4.

The most famous attraction in Alamogordo is McGinn’s Pistachio Tree Ranch. The parking lot features the largest pistachio in the entire world. The pistachios themselves are delicious, especially the red and green chili varieties. The gift shop is full of things worth spending money on.

A Detour to Cloudcroft

About 30 minutes from Alamogordo, the road climbs up into the Sacramento Mountains and Lincoln National Forest. Here lies the little mountain town of Cloudcroft, New Mexico.

Just before town, a pull-off provides a view of the Mexican Canyon Trestle. This is an 1800s Wild West era train bridge. A trail down to the trestle starts just up the road. Hikers can even see White Sands from certain points along the trail.

Cloudcroft itself offers skiing in winter, lots of cool shops, and an amazing barbecue restaurant. Cloudcroft Brewing Company serves great beer and pizza. It is a must-visit for anyone who enjoys craft beer.

Best Time to Visit

Spring and fall offer the best weather for visiting White Sands. Daytime temperatures are mild. The sun is not too harsh. Sunset colors are excellent.

Summer is hot. Daytime temperatures often exceed 90 degrees. The lack of shade makes hiking uncomfortable during midday. However, summer also brings monsoon storms that can fill the playa lake and create dramatic cloudscapes at sunset.

Winter is cold but sunny. Daytime temperatures are comfortable for hiking. Sunset comes early, which makes timing easier. Snow on the white dunes is rare but beautiful.

What to Bring

Water is the most important item. At least one liter per person is recommended for any hike. For the Alkali Flats Trail, two liters is better.

Sunscreen and a hat protect against the intense sun. The white sand reflects sunlight upward, increasing exposure.

Sunglasses with polarized lenses cut the glare and make it easier to see.

Sturdy footwear is recommended. Sand gets into shoes no matter what, but closed-toe shoes protect feet from the heat and from any sharp objects buried in the sand.

A camera is essential. The landscapes here are unlike anywhere else. A wide-angle lens captures the sweep of the dunes. A polarizing filter helps manage the bright reflections.

Conclusion

White Sands National Park is one of the most unique places in the National Park System. The gypsum dunes are found nowhere else in North America on this scale. The white sand stretches to the horizon in every direction. Mountains rise in the distance. The sky seems enormous overhead.

The park is small. It can be seen in a single day. Hiking all four trails is possible for those who start early. Adding sledding and sunset viewing fills the day completely.

Sunset is the highlight. The colors that spread across the sky and reflect off the white sand are unforgettable. For many visitors, watching the sun go down over the dunes is the best part of the trip.

White Sands is a place that feels otherworldly. The white dunes look like snow but feel like sand. The silence is deep. The views are endless. It is a gem in the desert of New Mexico and well worth the drive.