Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument: Arizona’s Volcanic Wonder
Arizona is known for its hot deserts. It is known for the Grand Canyon. But volcanoes? That is not the first image that comes to mind for most visitors. Yet northern Arizona holds a volcanic field with over 600 volcanoes. Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument protects one of the youngest and most impressive of them all.
This guide covers the best things to see and do at this little-known part of the national park system. From ancient lava caves to black volcanic hills, Sunset Crater offers a completely different Arizona experience.
Flagstaff: The Gateway to the Volcanoes
There is really only one logical place to stay when visiting Sunset Crater. Flagstaff sits about two hours north of Phoenix. This city is a welcome break from the high desert temperatures in the summer. It sits along the famous Route 66. It is an adventurer’s paradise no matter the season.
Flagstaff sits at the base of the San Francisco Peaks and the Coconino National Forest. Endless opportunities for outdoor recreation exist here. Hiking through pine and aspen forests in summer and autumn. Skiing and snowshoeing at the Snowbowl in winter. The city is only 25 minutes from Sunset Crater.
Historic downtown Flagstaff is home to a variety of cool shops, cafes, restaurants, and breweries. The craft beer scene is excellent. It is one of the best parts of visiting the city.
Getting to the Monument
Take Highway 89 heading north out of Flagstaff for about 25 minutes. A turnoff on the right leads to Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. The first view of the main attraction appears quickly.
Bonito Park is a pull-off and small trail just before the entrance gate. This spot offers a great look at the San Francisco Peaks to the west and Sunset Crater to the east. It is also a fantastic spot to catch sunset at the end of the day. The volcano is named for its red-colored top, a sharp contrast to the black basalt that forms its base and many of the surrounding hills.
There are over 600 volcanoes in the entire area. Pretty much every crater visible on a map of this region is a volcano. The San Francisco Volcanic Field covers nearly 2,000 square miles.
Entrance Fees
The entrance fee is $25 per vehicle. This includes Sunset Crater and the park next door, Wupatki National Monument. More on that in a moment.
The America the Beautiful annual pass works here as well. The pass costs $80 and is well spent for anyone visiting multiple federally managed sites. It covers national forests, national parks, and national monuments.
Are the Volcanoes Still Active?
A common question asked here is whether the volcanoes are still active. The answer is no, at least not currently. However, the San Francisco Volcanic Field is technically still considered active. There could be an eruption in the future, but not from any of the volcanoes that already exist.
Sunset Crater erupted around 1,000 years ago. The eruption completely ravaged the surrounding area. Believe it or not, people lived here at the time. They had enough warning to pack up and get out. Remnants of a Pueblo society can be found in Wupatki National Monument, which is connected to Sunset Crater by a park road.
The A’a Trail
The power of the eruption here is immediately visible on the first trail past the visitor center. The forest abruptly ends. A gigantic plateau of black rock takes its place. This is the Bonito Lava Flow.
The A’a Trail allows visitors to hike on this volcanic rock. A’a is the sharp, jagged kind of lava. The short quarter-mile loop trail is named after this type of lava. This lava flow was one of several spots in the region used for training by Apollo astronauts in the 1960s. They came here to prepare for their trip to the moon. The volcanic landscape of northern Arizona was the closest thing on Earth to the lunar surface.
Can You Hike to the Top of Sunset Crater?
The answer is no. There used to be a trail up the mountain, but it closed in 1973. The loose cinder soil was eroding rapidly under hikers’ footsteps. Some of the marks left behind can still be seen from a distance.
To see into the crater itself, visitors need to take an aerial tour or hike to what might be the best view in the entire area. That happens to be another extinct volcano: O’Leary Peak.
Lenox Crater Trail
For an easier hike to a volcano summit, the Lenox Crater Trail is a good option. This trail is located across the street from the A’a Trail. Visitors expecting to hike into an actual crater might be disappointed. Most of Lenox Crater was actually filled in by Sunset Crater’s eruption.
The 1.1-mile loop trail begins in dense ponderosa pine forest. It heads upward toward the summit. The cinder soil here is generally loose and slippery. Combined with the higher elevation, visitors might find themselves out of breath.
Once at the top, an amazing view of the San Francisco Peaks appears. The green trees dotting the black soil create a unique picture. The trail also ends with a fantastic view of Sunset Crater itself.
Lava Flow Trail
For those wanting a closer look at the park’s namesake, finish the Lenox Crater Trail and continue down the road a little ways. The next turnoff on the right leads to a large parking lot and the start of the Lava Flow Trail.
This short, wheelchair-accessible and pet-friendly trail weaves through the Bonito Lava Flow all the way to the base of the volcano. It is about as close as visitors can get to Sunset Crater. The sheer power of these volcanoes is obvious here.
Lava River Cave
But where does it all start? For that answer, visitors need to head underground. Lava River Cave is one of the most amazing volcanic formations in the entire area. It is located about 40 minutes from Flagstaff in the middle of the Coconino National Forest.
The eruption that created this space was over 700,000 years ago. These caves are volcanic vents. Once the lava finished rushing through, this empty space was what remained. Relatively easy to get to, Lava River Cave is best hiked in the warmer months. The temperature inside is a steady 35 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit year round.
Hiking boots and at least two sources of light are essential. It is pitch black down here. For anyone staying in Flagstaff for more than a day, this is a must-see.
The Best View in the Park: O’Leary Peak
There is only one trail that actually allows visitors to look down into Sunset Crater itself. That is the summit of O’Leary Peak. This trail is actually part of Coconino National Forest. The trailhead is found just before entering Sunset Crater, at a turnoff for the O’Leary Group Campground.
Proceed up the road and make the first right. A small parking lot and a sign marking the trail appear. The trail is actually just a service road to the fire tower at the top of the mountain.
The hike is about 10 miles round trip. Setting aside five to six hours is recommended. Plenty of food and water are essential. The first mile or so is relatively level. Then it is all uphill, switchback after switchback. There is about 2,000 feet of elevation gain on this hike. Plenty of opportunities to stop and take breaks exist.
The view gets better the higher visitors climb. The Bonito Lava Flow becomes visible nearly in its entirety from up here. Other extinct cinder cones come into view as well.
The end of the trail is marked by a fire tower. Depending on the time of year, someone could be living in it. If a person is there, it is up to them whether visitors can come up. If not, feel free to call out to them. If the fire tower is accessible, the view gets even better.
Directly past the fire tower, an outcropping provides the one and only view that looks down into Sunset Crater. On a clear day, visibility extends for miles. Visitors can see easily into Wupatki National Monument next door and even into the Painted Desert where Petrified Forest National Park is located.
Sunset at Sunset Crater
Bonito Park, near the entrance of the monument, is a fantastic spot to watch the sunset. The red top of Sunset Crater glows in the fading light. The black lava flows darken to near black. The San Francisco Peaks turn purple in the distance. It is hard to imagine a better spot to watch the end of the day in the entire park.
Wupatki National Monument
The entrance fee for Sunset Crater also covers Wupatki National Monument. This park is located just down the road and protects ancient Pueblo ruins. The people who lived here fled when Sunset Crater erupted. After the eruption, they returned. The fertile volcanic soil was excellent for farming.
Wupatki is worth visiting on the same day as Sunset Crater. The two parks together tell a complete story. The eruption. The destruction. The return. The adaptation.
Best Time to Visit
Summer is the most popular season in Sunset Crater. The weather is warm but much cooler than the Arizona deserts. The trails are snow-free. The lava flows are fully accessible. However, summer also brings monsoon storms in July and August. Lightning on exposed ridges is dangerous.
Fall brings cooler temperatures and fall color. The aspens in the surrounding national forest turn gold in October. The crowds thin out.
Spring can be unpredictable. Snow is possible. Some trails may be muddy. But the wildflowers bloom in late spring, adding color to the black volcanic landscape.
Winter brings snow to the higher elevations. The monument may still be accessible, but some trails could be closed. The volcanic peaks look dramatic with snow on their red and black slopes.
What to Bring
Water is essential on all trails. The elevation is high, around 7,000 feet at the visitor center. Dehydration happens quickly. For the O’Leary Peak hike, at least two liters per person is recommended.
Sturdy hiking boots are necessary for the Lenox Crater and O’Leary Peak trails. The cinder soil is loose and slippery. Good grip prevents falls.
Sun protection is critical. The sun is intense at this elevation. Sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses are essential.
For Lava River Cave, two sources of light are mandatory. A headlamp with extra batteries is recommended. A handheld flashlight serves as backup. The cave is completely dark. Without light, visitors cannot see their own hands in front of their faces.
Conclusion
Volcanoes in Arizona. Who would have thought? Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument protects a landscape that feels more like Hawaii or Iceland than the American Southwest. Black lava flows stretch for miles. Red cinder cones rise from the forest. Ancient volcanoes dot the landscape in every direction.
The monument offers something for every visitor. Short, easy trails like the A’a Trail and Lava Flow Trail provide close-up views of the lava. Moderate hikes like Lenox Crater offer summit views. The challenging O’Leary Peak hike rewards with the only view down into Sunset Crater itself.
Lava River Cave adds an underground adventure. Wupatki National Monument adds ancient history. The city of Flagstaff adds good food, good beer, and a comfortable place to sleep.
For anyone who thinks Arizona is just deserts and the Grand Canyon, Sunset Crater is a wake-up call. The state has volcanoes. It has lava caves. It has black hills and red cinder cones. And this little-known national monument protects some of the best examples anywhere in the country.